When it comes to shopping for clothes, the composition of the fabric can often get overlooked. But with fashion being responsible for 10% of annual global carbon emissions, it is vital that we start shopping more sustainably and learn more about where are clothes come from. Azraq board director and sustainable fashion advocate Amanda Rushforth gives us a super simple run down of what our fabrics actually are.

 

Natural fibres

Natural fibres are pretty much what they say on the tin; fibres that are created by plants, animals or geological processes without the use of man-made chemicals.

Linen: a cream linen suit is a perfect addition to a capsule wardrobe, but what is linen? It’s a natural fibre made from flax plants and is strong, durable, organic, recyclable and biodegradable. Wow! It is a premium product, and represents only 1% of global textile consumption.

Hemp: a biodegradable and healthy fabric that doesn’t need any chemicals or fertilizers to grow. It’s a fast growing plant, but it is also very water-demanding. It is often thought to be rough feeling and not soft on the skin, so maybe don’t chose this one for your pjs.

Wool: wool is natural and renewable, and doesn’t need any chemicals to produce. However, it isn’t all good news as cruelty towards sheep is almost standard in the industry.

Organic cotton: organic cotton is a more sustainable alternative to conventional cotton. It is purer, softer and stronger. It takes 29,000 litres of water to produce 1kg of regular cotton, and agrochemicals and pesticides make it grow faster.

Regenerated fibres

These are “man-made, but made from cellulose”, which means they are created by processing natural polymers.  Regenerated fibres were the first manufactured fibres to be developed.

Lyocell/Tencel: made from the cellulose of eucalyptus trees, lyocell/Tencel gives better breathability and moisture absorption. The production of this fibre uses a closed loop manufacturing process, which means that the process reuses waste material which is created during the production process, diverting waste materials away from landfill and reducing the amount of resources we consume. 

Modal: Modal is a soft fabric that absorbs water, has resistance to wear and washing temperatures. Look for Tencel Modal, who manufactures in a closed loop chemical process.

Viscose/Rayon: Yes, this is the fibre of the dress which the sales assistant tries to sell Elle Woods in Legally Blonde, “is that a low-viscosity rayon? With a half-loop stitching on the hem?”. It is a low-cost, mass produced fabric which looks similar to silk. Pulp is dissolved in a highly polluting chemical solution and then turned into yarn, creating a low quality material.

Acetate: this is a cheap substitute to silk made from cellulose. Not durable at all, this fabric creates short-term wear items and is made using a highly toxic chemical process. Not cute. 

Synthetic Fibres

Synthetic fibres are man-made and are “obtained through a chemical process, usually from by-products of petroleum or natural gas”.

Elastane/spandex: lycra, cordura and supplex are all examples of elastane/spandex. They are super stretchy, and you will find elastane present even in eco-friendly clothing that requires elasticity. They are non-eco friendly polymers that requires many chemicals to manufacture in an energy intensive process.

Acrylic: the synthetic cousin of wool, acrylic is soft, bulky, and washable. It is created in an energy intensive process, made from polyacrylonitrile. Acrylic is a plastic known from being a carcinogen, which scarily means it could possibly cause cancer.

Nylon: Nylon has the ability to stretch and come back to normal without losing its shape, and it’s super durable. It is not a breathable fabric and has low moisture absorbency (Nylon gym wear is a recipe for body acne!). Creating Nylon is a very energy intensive process and also creates nitrous oxide, a huge climate threat.

Polyester: Polyester is durable, resistant to stretch, easy to wash and it dries fast. Sounds good? Well actually, this polymer and the fabric is basically plastic. It is made of petroleum and isn’t biodegradable, uses toxic dyes to colour and uses a large amount of water to produce.

Greenwashing

It might look good on the outside but these are materials to be careful of. Some fabric producers are “hopping on the sustainable fashion bandwagon without the credentials”, misleading consumers into how ‘eco’ their fibres actually are.

Bamboo: it’s all in the manufacturing when it comes to bamboo. Made similarly to viscose, there is high amount of chemical processes in the creation of bamboo material. For actually sustainable eco-friendly choices, look for bamboo linen or bamboo lyocell.

Econyl/nylon/polyester made from recycled plastic: textiles made from recycled plastic are on the rise, and often uses recycled plastic bottles or fishing nets. Although using a closed loop manufacturing process to help reuse the chemicals in the production is beneficial, every time you wash these products, tiny microplastics are being released straight into the water. Wash them in a Guppyfriend washing bag to help reduce this.