If you’re on a mission to *finally* get your skincare routine locked down, you’ve probs noticed a lot of serums, lotions, and potions with the words glycolic and lactic acid on them. These alpha hydroxy acids (more on that in a min) are extremely important for your skin’s health and overall glow. However, not all chemical exfoliants are created equally. We chatted with Specialist Dermatologist, Doctor Kateryna Lebedyk, of Hortman Clinics to get the juice on these glow-getting ingredients.
Mirror, mirror on the wall, which acid is best of all? (Hint: it depends on your skin type).
via Instagram @powderbeautyofficial
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
First thing first, let’s break down exactly what alpha hydroxy acids (aka AHAs) do. They originate from both plant and animal-based sources and are used to exfoliate the skin, although some types of acids have secondary benefits. These chemical exfoliants come in many forms, however, glycolic and lactic acid is the most prevalent.
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is “a chemical exfoliant derived from sugarcane” and dissolves the bonds (think of them as glue) between dead skin cells. These dull cells slough off revealing fresh, healthy, glowing skin underneath. Sugarcane also acts as a humectant. Since “glycolic acid has a small molecular size, it’s able to penetrate into the deeper dermis stimulating collagen production” giving the new skin an extra quench of hydration for maximum plumpness.
via Instagram @lauren.o.connell
Glycolic acid improves skin in many ways, including evening out skin tone resulting in fewer traces of hyperpigmentation, like sun spots, as well as reducing blackheads, smoothing skin, and minimising fine lines and wrinkles.
By the way, when introducing chemical exfoliants into your skincare routine, it’s imperative you use a broad-spectrum sunblock every single day.
Who it works best for
“Glycolic acid is safe for lighter skin types but is best for those with oily and acne-prone skin. For dry skin and deeper skin tones, implement glycolic acid into routine with caution, especially if you have rosacea, eczema, and/or psoriasis.”
Shop it, sis
Bea Skincare’s Glyco 15% Serum (Dhs200, thekur.com) is made for all skin types. For dry and deeper skin tones, apply to your complexion once a day. If your skin gleams as much as Deira’s gold souks, opt for twice a day.
via Instagram @indie_lee
If masking up with chemical exfoliants and kicking back with a good book is your thing, check out Indie Lee’s Clearing Mask (Dhs239, peach.shop). Not only will it exfoliate your skin, but it’ll do the most to clear up pesky breakouts.
Feel like ~confidently~ going filter-free? Moon Juice’s Acid Potion (Dhs180, powderbeauty.com) doesn’t play any games when it comes to resurfacing your skin. This potent liquid lotion contains a whopping 25% AHA and BHA (pore clearing) complex in its exfoliating formula.
Lactic Acid
If the two most popular chemical exfoliants were sisters, lactic acid would be the one people would describe as more chill. Traditionally, “lactic acid is derived from milk” however vegan lactic acids do exist. These ones come from fermented plants. The molecules of lactic acid are larger than glycolic acid. Since they cannot penetrate as deeply, they are widely considered to be gentler on the skin.
A secondary benefit of lactic acid is they encourage ceramide production in the skin. Ceramides make up a key part of the outer layer of our skin, called the stratum corneum. They’re responsible for keeping our skin moisturised and our skin barrier intact.
via Instagram @lauren.o.connell
Who it works best for
For those with dry skin, it’s time to cry tears of joy, because this is one of the chemical exfoliants of your dreams. Not only will skin appear brighter and firmer, but girl, it’s gonna upgrade you from Liwa desert skin status real quick.
Shop it, sis
via Instagram @biossance
Ngl, the first time we used this product, we immediately checked out our complexion in the mirror after waking up. Truth be told, our skin *did* have a beautiful glow. Talk about waking up on the right side of the bed.
Biossance’s vegan Squalane and Lactic Acid Resurfacing Serum (Dhs197, cultbeauty.com) combines exfoliating goodness with a powerful punch of hydration to give you your dreamiest skin yet.
The Ordinary’s Lactic Acid 10% +2% HA Superficial Peeling Formulation (Dhs35, lookfantastic.ae) not only makes our wallets happy but our selfies too. This thin serum can be applied morning or night to exfoliate, brighten, and even out skin tone. As with all chemical exfoliants (and tbh, in general) make sure you wear a broad-spectrum sunblock in the daytime. We know we’ve mentioned this earlier, but trust us, it’s *that* important.
One of our all-time favourite lactic acid serums is Sunday Riley’s Good Genes All-In-One-Lactic Acid Serum (starting at Dhs190, sephora.ae). Its silky formula sinks right into our skin, renewing and refreshing our complexions. We love its non-sticky texture and the reduction we’ve seen in fine lines over time.