If we had to name the crowning jewel of cosmetic treatments, it would be facial fillers. From plumping lips to defining the jawline, there’s not much this injectable can’t do – and thanks to the ‘Zoom boom’, demand for filler sky-rocketed over the pandemic.
But video chat isn’t the only thing responsible for our sudden desire to go under the needle. A shift in attitude towards cosmetic treatments means we’re talking about facial fillers with more honesty – and accuracy – than ever.
And when it comes to your face, you don’t just want information, you want the right information. With some help from award-winning cosmetic treatment destination, Selfologi, we were able to talk to the pros about everything we need to know.
Scroll down to check out all the questions you need to be asking (and their answers,) thanks to the UAE’s top doctors…
How much filler do I need?
Facial filler is usually measured in syringes or ml. However, unless you’re a pro, the odds of you being able to visualise two syringes in the lips or 3ml in your hands are pretty slim.
But once you’ve explained your goals to your practitioner, they’ll be able to tell you exactly how much you need. According to Dr. Rasha Kassem of Clinique des Champs Elysees, the average is one syringe per area.
“It depends on your features and the shape you want to have after your injection,” she explains. “But the areas that need the most [and cost the most] are the ones that need heavy contouring, like the cheeks and the jawline.”
Basically, the more radical the change, the more facial filler you’ll need. But don’t assume diving straight for four syringes will chisel the jawline of your dreams.
Dr. Pier Francesco Mancini of Medical Village stresses the importance of patience: “The best results come when you start slow. It’s always better to add more later to avoid reaching a point where we need to remove.”
Graphic by John Francis
What are the different techniques – needle vs cannula?
When someone says ‘injectable’, you think ‘needle’. But facial fillers aren’t any old injections. Some doctors use a cannula – a rounded blunt-tip tool, usually around four or five centimeters long – to distribute filler.
The benefit here is that a cannula only needs to be inserted once (reducing your risk of bruising) and can go deeper into the skin.
“It’s impossible to stay just in the skin with a cannula,” explains Amaryllis Polyclinic’s Dr. Christoph Reuter. “This makes it great for deep wrinkles or creating a sharp line on the jawline. But in small areas, this won’t give the shape you need.”
So, while cannula might be good for some facial fillers, it’s not best for more subtle results and shapes, such as lip fillers.
“No,” agrees Dr. Christoph. “That’s when you end up with results that look fake – or what I call ‘cannula lips’.”
How safe is the procedure, and are there any side effects?
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Like anything in life, filler comes with some risk. The good news? In the right hands, this risk is very, very small. “If you go to an expert who knows the anatomy of your face, you should be safe,” says Dr. Dina Sabih of Derma Medical Center.
Every practitioner should run you through the most common, mild side effects – including swelling and bruising – which Dr. Rasha assured us are, “not a big deal, and typically lasts for one or two days, if they occur at all.”
But they should also leave you confident that they know what to do in the case of something more serious.
“It’s rare, but areas like the nose or between the eyebrows are home to important arteries that can be obstructed by a less expert injector,” Dr. Dina explains. “They should know the signs of complications, and there should always be a kit ready in case of an emergency.”
How long will my results last?
This is a tricky one. “Sometimes people come with an idea of what facial fillers will look like and how long it will last just because they have a friend who’s had it,” says Dr Christoph. “But you need to remember that it’s different for everyone.”
This usually comes down to the filler itself. While softer facial fillers are used for soft areas (i.e. the lips), stronger fillers can be injected directly over the bone. The fact that bony areas move less also plays a part. “That’s why filler can last as long as one year in the cheekbones or under the eyes,” Dr. Christoph explains.
Dr. Pier agrees – and adds that our metabolism is another factor. “It doesn’t make a huge difference,” he says, “but that’s why some people might need to revisit their filler six months later, and others eight months or longer.”
Is there anything I need to do before and after my treatment?
As far as cosmetic treatments go, facial fillers are pretty low maintenance – but this is still a question worth asking. To be safe, Dr. Rasha advises patients to run any current medications by their practitioner ahead of time, as well as, “avoiding blood-thinners like aspirin to reduce the risk of bruising.”
Aftercare is a slightly different story. “Anything hot” is off-limits for the first 24 hours post-filler. Dr. Rasha warns against laser treatments in the area for a month after your appointment but encourages drinking as much water as possible. “This will help your facial fillers last longer and can even make your results look better.”
And isn’t that exactly what you want?
Interview by Chloë James, Editor at Selfologi.